《宣和奉使高丽图经》中的高丽服饰文化初探
Keywords:
《宣和奉使高丽图经》;高丽服饰文化;身份等级;文化交融Abstract
《宣和奉使高丽图经》是研究高丽王朝服饰文化的重要文献,其撰述源于北宋使者徐兢奉使高丽的亲身见闻,为后世了解高丽中期服饰制度与风貌提供了翔实记录。书中系统描绘了高丽时期的王服、百官服饰、民庶服饰、王公贵族女子服饰等多种类型,呈现出鲜明特点:色彩上崇尚黑、白、青碧;形制上推崇冠冕之制;穿着规范上体现出严格的等级秩序;整体风格上则兼具尚俭与奢华的双重特质。这种服饰文化的形成,既得益于高丽时期相对稳定的政治结构,也受制于多山地少平原、自然资源匮乏所导致的经济发展水平,同时深植于儒学礼制与阴阳五行思想的浸润。通过对《高丽图经》中服饰材料的梳理与研究,不仅可以更清晰地把握高丽服饰与汉服之间的渊源与互动关系,也能从服饰制度这一具体层面,深入认识高丽王朝的政治结构、社会风貌及其与宋朝的交往实况,进而为探讨东亚古代服饰文化的交流与融合提供重要参照
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